Back pressure, you got to have a muff 'er,, might as well put one together, you screw that part onto that part, and screw that part up into that part and if you keep doing that you end up with a real nice muffler assembly (don't forget the shellac), and if you do all that two more times you end up with two extra exhaust hose assemblies, part #3974, no welding, no duck tape, remember a 2cycle engine needs back pressure because the intake and exhaust ports open at the same time,, it's the scavenging effect,, look it up and use it and your engine will run better,, the aluminum or cast iron flange is part number S-259, cast iron muffler pt. #S-309, the flex pipe is listed in lengths of 8-12-20 foot, part # 12786,, in the maytag parts book the ferrule is listed as pt. #12843, don't forget the gasket, and a window guard for your flex-pipe if you are going to be washing your clothes indoors,, a maytag smokes,, I mean a lot of smoke, if you have the 16 to 1 gas and oil mixed correct, low octane gasoline and non det. 30W (mineral base) motor oil, leave a comment, subscribe, pass it on,, to be continued ,, Oh!, the engine is a 1937 maytag wringer washing machine (multi-motor) 5/8 HP, kick start, twin cylinder, opposed pistons, air cooled, the story goes on,, to be continued,,
Tags: maytag, engine, rebuild, cast, iron, muffler, twin, cylinder, diy, flex, pipe, gasket, shellac, tdc, duck, tape, girl, 92, repair, muffer, wmb, briggs, replacement, washing, machine, motor, model, 72, exhaust, flange, antique, 1937, auto, how, to, shop, tips
No comments:
Post a Comment